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26 April 2024

Retrogade style

(SUPPLIED)

Published
By Reena Amos Dyes

In today's world where flashing the cash has become the norm rather than the exception, there are still a discerning few who prefer subtlety and sophistication.

If you are one of those gentlemen who belong to the old school and believe luxury should be understated, then take a look at the latest offering from the Vacheron Constantin studio.

You will simply love the latest addition to the Contemporary Patrimony line, the Bi-retrograde day-date watch. This model was recognised as the ultimate expression of modern classicism when it was named 'Watch of the Year' in Switzerland in 2007.

And rightly so as the Dh133,000 timepiece with classic, aesthetic lines in 18-carat pink gold is a real Vacheron Constantin thoroughbred. Its apparent simplicity conceals a high level of mechanical complexity.

As any true watch connoisseur knows, the complexity of a mechanical movement is appreciated even more when it is expressed with refined elegance on the dial. And the Contemporary Patrimony Bi-retrograde does this to perfection.

Vacheron Constantin CEO Juan-Carlos Torres told Emirates Business: "This watch comes with a double-retrograde display for day and date in a contemporary diametre of 42.5mm. "Vacheron Constantin is proud to present a new Geneva Hallmark movement, which is far more difficult to produce than the traditional display of functions on circular counters."

To offer more than just the hour and minute display, Vacheron Constantin's watchmaker engineers and designers decided to add two of the most useful complications – day and date – and display them by means of two retrograde indicators.

Returning the hands in less than a tenth of a second over an arc close to 180º is a huge challenge for a mechanism of this size as an enormous amount of energy needs to be released instantly so they can fly back with absolute precision. This is why a special light and flexible alloy has been used.

Strength, instantaneousness and precision make the complexity of the two retrograde displays appear deceptively simple.

At the heart of this simple, unpretentiously refined timepiece lies the 2460R31R7 calibre, an automatic mechanical movement designed, developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin, with hour, minute, date and day functions.

This double-complication calibre is one of the brand's new 25.6 mm automatic movements, beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations an hour and with a power reserve of more than 40 hours.

It is distinguished by the meticulous chamfering work on the Côtes de Genève-decorated bridges and the circular-graining of the plate. An innovative ceramic ball-bearing system drives its 22 carat gold guilloché rotor.

But this watch is not just about mechanics – it is strong on design, too.

Comprising two parts and extended by soldered horns, the supremely delicate and elegant 18-carat pink gold case is water-resistant to 30m. It features a sapphire back through which one can admire the movement's finishing and decoration.

The display functions are clearly legible thanks to the generous proportions of the opaline silvered dial, and the meticulous care brought to each detail conveys an overall impression of harmony. With its curved exterior, the dial is of complex construction. It also boasts all the other design features of the Contemporary Patrimony line – baton hands, four polished 18-carat gold triangular hour markers beautifully shaped at three, six, nine and 12 o'clock, as well as a minute-circle of applied gold cabochons.

Torres summed it up: "Even though it is not a limited edition we are still proud of it as assembling this complex construction demands both technical precision and meticulous care at every stage – and we did it to perfection."