s the rest of the fashion world opens new flagship emporia in the UAE, one Dubai designer has his eyes set on breaking into the West. Syrian-born Rami Al Ali has just returned from a second showing of his haute couture at Rome's Alta Moda fashion week this month, part of an attempt to expand his business into key international markets.
"There was a fair amount of interest, people have appreciated the collection," the slim 37-year-old tells Emirates Business at his Al Wasl Road studio. "Although the downturn means buyers have smaller budgets, we're getting the results we're looking for."
His line is already sold in most GCC markets through top-end stores such as Harvey Nichols and Villa Moda, and after nine years of bespoke catering to the region's royalty, Al Ali sees new opportunities in prêt-à-porter or ready-to-wear and the international couture markets.
With his floaty and often fantastic high-voltage dresses, his clients thus far have been Emirati and other Arab wo-men looking for evening and occasion wear, but he now wants to go beyond that core demographic with more accessible lines.
"The strategy is for the prêt label to have a deeper penetration in the regional market," he says. "We want to expand into daywear and reach out to a range of ages and nationalities."
Part of that attempt is the launch of his first Ramadan collection next month. "We've never done this before. It's a very hip and trendy line aimed at the young generation," he says. While predominantly conservative kaftans and jellabiyas, these pieces are far from staid. Each is cut from luxurious fabrics in bright colours and printed in signature Rami Al Ali patterns. These will be available from August.
Over the course of the next two years, beginning with his new collection, Al Ali wants to be retailing in Russia, China and the United States. "We started with shows in Italy because they appreciate the same elegance as we do, here in this region. They deal with the same light and sun, they have the same features and skin tone and follow the same trends. So it was a logical starting point.
"We've begun with couture, which should see the collection being disseminated in international media. Prêt will follow."
And after a standalone store in the UAE – set for 2011 – the next step in that brand-building strategy is to get stars into his clothes – one red carpet shot, after all, can generate more interest in a designer than an expensive advertising campaign. And Al Ali's people are now talking to agents in London and New York.
But obviously, he isn't just going to transplant his Arab-friendly designs into the West and hope to rake in the money? "I was talking to the president of Alta Moda last week and she said women in the West don't dress up anymore; they wear one outfit to work and to socialise, with maybe a change of shoes or scarf. And though they may not have the time or the occasion, they still appreciate – and desire – red carpet fashion. So the approach is to combine the tailoring techniques of the West with the aesthetics of Arabia to create a fusion of the two cultures.
"When the brand is as well-established internationally as it is regionally," he adds, "when the Rami Al Ali name is well trusted for its quality and styling, that's when it becomes easier to diversify into other product lines – and it will be less risky for investors."
So is the intention then for a top conglomerate to take a stake in his company? "Why not? As long as I have a free hand on the creative front, if someone else is taking care of the financial side, I'm happy.
"If I can find a person who is as good at the financial side as I am creatively, I will have found the formula for a successful business."
He says he prefers that the initial expansion is self-funded. "I might look for investors if the growth requires it, but for now, I can handle it myself."
Since his first collection in 2000, his operation has grown from two tailors and a cutter to a 38-person team. Al Ali produces 650 garments a year, with many taking between one and three weeks to produce. Rami Al Ali prêt garments retail for between Dh5,000 and Dh15,000, but couture prices depend on the work involved.
"A couple of years ago, I realised I needed to start investing in the business if I wanted to build my brand," he says. "In business terms, I'm still a beginner. But 25 years from now, I hope I will have been able to correct a few fashion mistakes and leave my mark on it."
New Collection
Rami Al Ali's autumn/winter line took its inspiration from the peacock. A press note on the line says Al Ali was inspired by the elegance, splendour and brilliant colours of the flamboyant bird.
The motion of the bird's feathers provoked Rami to work on integrating colours and hues, so depending on the angle at which one looks at the garment, its colour changes.
Working from a palette of brights, Al Ali worked each piece in crystals, beads and embroidery.
The showstopper was a wedding dress cut from 24-carat gold tulle.
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