A wave of accessible elegance

We were rather bemused by our amuse bouche.

Ensconced in a pair of armchairs overlooking the lobby of the Shangri-La Hotel on a sortie to try the new menu at the seafood restaurant Amwaj, we shelve our analysis of its chic and contemporary styling as a tiny scallop in a raisin sauce is put in front of us.

It just about works, but the scallops fare better when paired with braised leeks in Iranian saffron, which is my starter. Not only is the often superlative seafood that Iran produces not talked up in this region, but how could I resist hand-dived sea scallops? They're tender and lightly done, the leeks' quiet, textured presence giving them a finesse the raisins can't match.

One look at what my friend's having, though, is enough to turn me green with envy. His Muscovite combination starter-soup appetiser – Tsarskaya oysters with a velouté of watercress – is a history and geography lesson combined.

Oysters served in five different ways are placed on a specially created soup plate – four on the half-shell and one in the velouté. Each could conceivably represent a different Russia – one is served pure, another topped with salsa, a third with Hollandaise and salad leaves, and the fourth crumb-fried. I allow myself to try the frothy velouté – no wonder those Czars were driven to excesses of all sorts.

Having been given ideas above our station, then, we opt for the signature Amwaj King Seafood platter, which is served after a nicely unusual detour of mango sorbet with chocolate sprinkles to cleanse the palate.

A refreshing twist on the French-brasserie-style cold platter, the Dh650 portion allows two people to tuck into a variety of hot fruits de mer.

Served on a two-tier plate, it constrasts fresh oysters with chips, grilled prawns, braised salmon, hammour with a garlicky sauce, stewed mussels, deep-fried calamari and mussels and the piece de resistance: lightly done lobsters. You're given a choice of a rather pedestrian, mildly spiced Arabic-style accompaniment of chopped tomatoes, onions and peppers, or a sensational lemon butter sauce.

(And yes, there's a healthy vegetarian and meat selection for those who can't be tempted by seafood.)

Dessert was a chocolate box for me – mousse packed with chocolate wafers and topped with a marinated cherry – and a strawberry rhubarb pie for my friend.

Would I go back? Yes – that Muscovite decadence is hard to match.

Amwaj. At the Shangri-La Hotel, Dubai. Call 04 343 888