Culture to the fore in Amman

Somewhere off the colourfully named Rainbow Street lies Books@Café, a renovated old villa that is part bookshop, part internet café and all round trendy hotspot.

Royalty and hip young Jordanians alike gather over its signature thin floppy pizzas and Green Mountain Coffee, discussing affairs of state – or of the heart – with heated fervour. Like in other Arab capitals, much of Amman's nightlife revolves around fashionable cafés like this one, which serve as an introduction to Jordanian society.

The country is one of the most liberal in the Arab world, and for the expatriate on the two-year stint here in the UAE, it shows how a society can juggle its history and heritage with the pressing demands of modernity. (Even better, its temperate Mediterranean climes in August and September, when it is rarely hotter than 30 degrees, are a lovely time to visit, particularly for the million or so long-suffering residents of the Gulf who visit each summer.)

The image of Jordan as an oasis of peace and freedom has seen several waves of refugees change the country's demographic mix; particularly from Palestine over the past 60 years, and from Iraq more recently. Amman has grown considerably as a result, going from a small city around the middle of the last century to a thriving conurbation of 2.5 million people today. Many of the spanking new buildings that have changed its skyline are a direct result of these immigrant waves, with entire new districts having mushroomed around the city – especially in trendy West Amman.

The city is often little more than a stopover for tourists journeying on to one of Jordan's many ancient wonders, such as the rock-hewn jewel that is the Nabatean city of Petra, or the breathtaking delights of Wadi Ramm, about which endless reams of newsprint has been generated, but there's enough to see and do in Amman to make it a fine weekend break.

One of the world's oldest continuously occupied cities, it has long been at the crossroads of change. An excavation in the nineties uncovered homes and towers believed to have been built during the Stone Age, around 7000 BC and Biblical luminaries such as Saul knew it as the Ammonite capital of Rabbath-Ammon. The Assyrians, the Persians, the Egyptians (whose Hellenic ruler, Ptolemy II Philadelphus, renamed it Philadelphia), the Ummayds and the Circassians all conquered its seven hills and made their home here.

Many souvenirs of these visits are still visible here, in bustling souks, at disused train stations and typically, in the city's downtown heart.

The best place to begin your exploration of these is at the centre of it all, at the Citadel on Jabal Al Qal'a with its stunning view of the city.

Get there early in the afternoon and pick up a guide at the gate: it isn't expensive and the guide who showed us around the magnificent ruins atop the hill clearly knew his way around the seven centuries of civilisation spread around the hill.

From below, the awe-inspiring Temple of Hercules might well seem like the highlight, but only when you stand underneath it do you realise just how massive it is – and what a truly Herculean efforts it must have required to put those columns up.

Around it lie the ruins of some Roman baths, a not-very impressive Byzantine basilica (dating to between the fifth and sixth centuries), an Arab castle dating to the Damascene Ummayds in the seventh century and a rather remarkable cistern capable of holding some 1,000 cubic metres of water – enough to allow the inhabitants of the palace to hold out in the event of an invasion.

Allow an hour or so for the Jordan Archaeological Museum, which is unmissable for its collection of historic Dead Sea scrolls and Iron Age sarcophagi, so by the time you're ready to leave, the setting sun will have reanimated the sky and turned the city's white buildings a warm gold.

From here it's a short walk – as the crow flies, across rooftops and down crooked stairs past open front doors and whimsical art galleries – down the hill to the Roman amphitheatre and colonnaded street below.

The theatre, built in the second century, is cut into a hill that once served as a graveyard and is still used for sporting and cultural events.

Thankfully, it isn't locked away – buy a cup of tea nearby and stop for a bit of a chat with the friendly Jordanians there. If you haven't had your fill of museums, there are two more in the area, or you could stop at the ottoman-style King Hussein Mosque.

A stone's throw away is bustling Amman souq in the El Balad area, which is a treat all its own, although perhaps not one of the region's great Arabic markets. Nevertheless, there's plenty to do here: Hours and hours of browsing for tiny gold jewellery, cosmetics made from Dead Sea mud, fragrant spices, fine olive oil, witty Palestinian scarves and all manner of amusing tat. (Fridays, as you might expect, are the best days to hit the local shops, whether in El Balad, the Souq Jara flea market on Rainbow Street or the Abdali market for clothes and fruit.) Either way, make sure you try some of the local food, whether in the economy-class downtown restaurants or at more upmarket venues.

Put your stomachs to the test with the Bedouin mansaf, a tripartite dish reputed to help broker peace between warring neighbours. A rather rustic spread of Arabic rice, lamb cooked in yoghurt with aromatic herbs, and a broth of dry sour milk that you pour over the rice, this dish may not be easy on the eyes and can, when done badly, be heavy on the stomach – but cooked well, I'm told, it is a taste of heaven.

Or you could pop across town to the Four Seasons Hotel Amman for a more international meal at their Thai and Japanese restaurant, Asia, which has won several local food awards.

Their White Plate tasting menu is well reputed, so if you're here, ask for it – and if you like your food spicy, let the chef know. And afterwards, kick back to one of the live bands at the Blue Fig Café, where the most fashionable set comes to let its hair down, or stop by Tche Tche café for the strawberry shisha.


Essential info: economy and luxury

GETTING THERE

Amman became flydubai's second destination when it started daily flights in June, making the Jordanian capital more accessible (prices start at Dh250 one way). Operating from Dubai International Airport's Terminal Two also makes the journey easier because there is not so far to walk and less traffic means clearing immigration is much quicker than the main terminal.

The flight is no frills, with only a small water free, but at just Dh25 for a sandwich, crisps and drink, it's no bank breaker and helps to keep the fare down. The aircraft are fine for short journeys – there is no in-flight entertainment – but the competitive rates mean more spending money once you're there.

www.flydubai.com

WHERE TO STAY

For a hotel in the heart of the city, head for The Four Seasons, whose location on the highest of Amman's hills affords spectacular views over the modern city.

Strategically located between the shopping area of Sweifiyah and the Shmeisani financial district, the hotel offers six different accommodation options, five dining outlets and a luxurious spa that uses a variety of curative Dead Sea essences in its treatments. Book online at www.fourseasons.com


Of hot springs and spa breaks

Located just over an hour's drive south of Amman, Evason Ma'in, is home to some amazing hot springs and the Six Senses Resort and Spa. Local people flock here to bathe under the public waterfalls but Six Senses has a number of private ones on site.

Lying 264 metres below sea level, oxygen levels are eight per cent higher, so coupled with the remote, quiet location, this is the ideal place to relax after a few days in the city.

Some waterfalls reach temperatures of 64C but the one by the spa is perfect for a rain shower before a treatment. There are also two pools to relax in but the spa pool is quite slimy due to the waterfall filtering into it.

The hotel has almost 100 rooms and suites, including a honeymoon suite on the top floor, all of which have balconies to enjoy the stunning surroundings. It also has a library with free internet, as well as a wine cellar, which can be booked for private functions and a gym.

But for those who enjoy a nice workout with a difference, the hotel can organise treks which last between 90 minutes and four hours.

You can even build up an appetite trekking to dinner atop the rocky mountain terrain.

The food at Six Senses is excellent. There are various live cooking stations for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a range of produce grown organically on site at the resort and exercising the taste buds is much more fun than sweating it out at the gym.

But don't leave without sampling one of the many spa treatments, because after all, that's what Six Senses is famous for. (Aimee Greaves)

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