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12 April 2024

Mugler's 'supermen' open Paris fashion shows

Japanese-Italian designer Nicola Formichetti (L) and French designer Romain Kremer appear at the end of their Thierry Mugler label Autumn-Winter 2012/2013 men's fashion collection show in Paris


Supermen strode the catwalk on day one of the Paris menswear shows Wednesday as Mugler sent out sharp, futuristic suits for autumn-winter, worn under giant-shouldered jackets and military-style capes.

Best known as Lady Gaga's stylist, the label's creative director Nicola Formichetti took "formal, military dress uniforms" as his starting point to explore the idea of male heroes, almost "superhuman" in their proportions.

"It is that exaggerated, heroic silhouette, hyper-masculine and formal that we were interested in, and how it transforms men," he said.

Formichetti and menswear designer Romain Kremer threw open the creative process in preparing the collection, streamcasting the run-up to the show online and inviting feedback from fans.

Higlighting the open process, the first two models stepped out to a pounding dance soundtrack with cameras on harnesses strapped to their bodies.

Followed sharp-cut suits in deep red, blue, green or black, that paired tapered pants with cropped jackets, overcoats and military-inspired capes - all round-necked and big-shouldered in a nod to vintage Thierry Mugler designs.

Sexy ironworkers stepped out bare-chested with long aprons worn over slimline trousers.

Natural wools, cottons and leathers were given a plastic, rubber or lacquered finish, while heavy silk jacquard fabrics were reworked as head-to-toe patterns, like on a maroon three-piece suit worn with outsized overcoat.

Earlier, a duo of young designers opened the five-day menswear shows, with Japan's Arashi Yanagawa at the label John Lawrence Sullivan citing David Bowie as a key inspiration for his colourful, dandyish autumn-winter line.

The designer, a former boxer who named his label after a 19th-century boxing champion, contrasted checks with stripes, shiny with mat fabrics, luminous greens and violets - and also threw the occasional boxing glove or knuckle-duster into the mix.

Newcomer Yohan Serfaty showed a collection for his label Y. Project built around leather, suede and sheepskin, with pants cropped at mid-calf, roomy boots zipped open at the back, and high zippered collars to keep out the cold.