How Iraq’s iconic masgouf fish found a home in Dubai

Dubai: Unlike most grilled fish dishes, Iraqi masgouf is not cooked directly over a flame. Instead, the fish is opened, cleaned and seasoned before being placed beside glowing embers, where it cooks slowly under the careful supervision of the chef. The process is as important as the dish itself. Time, patience and constant attention to the fire are central to a tradition that has been passed down through generations of Iraqi families and has travelled far beyond the banks of the Tigris and Euphrates. In Dubai, masgouf has found a new audience among Emiratis and residents from a wide range of nationalities, evolving from a dish associated primarily with the Iraqi community into one of the emirate's recognised culinary experiences. Decades of tradition Chef Azad Mohammed For Chef Azad Mohammed's family, the story of masgouf dates back to 1973 in Iraqi Kurdistan, where the family first began preparing the dish. In 1999, they brought that experience to the UAE through Erbil Iraqi Kebab restaurant, carrying with them skills and techniques accumulated over decades. The profession remained within the family, with knowledge passed down from one generation to the next, making the preparation of masgouf both a craft and a family tradition. Traditionally, masgouf is associated with river fish and open-fire cooking, making it an integral part of Iraqi food culture. Yet its significance extends beyond its ingredients. Preparation requires space, time and careful management of the fire, creating a visual spectacle for diners waiting for their meal. The fish is opened and placed near the embers, allowing heat to reach it gradually. The chef continuously monitors the fire, adjusting temperature, distance and cooking time to achieve the desired result. Azad said handling the fire, selecting the right fish and preparing it correctly are inseparable from the quality of masgouf, adding that years of experience have helped his family preserve the traditional method they learned in Iraq. A craft learned through experience Much of the knowledge involved in preparing masgouf remains unwritten. Like many traditional dishes, masgouf carries more than flavour. Picture: Dennis Mallari Chefs learn to read the heat of the fire, judge when the fish should be moved closer or further away and monitor subtle changes during the grilling process. Over time, these skills become practical knowledge transmitted through generations. According to Azad, mastering these details requires years of experience. He noted that not every type of fish is suitable for preparing masgouf in the traditional Iraqi style, as different varieties vary in texture and their ability to withstand the slow grilling method. Among the fish commonly used are sea bream and sea bass, with understanding their characteristics forming an essential part of the chef's expertise. More than a meal Like many traditional dishes, masgouf carries more than flavour. The aroma of the wood fire, the anticipation surrounding the cooking process and the gathering of family and friends around the fish become part of the experience and memory associated with the dish. When masgouf travels to a new city, it carries not only a recipe but also the customs and stories connected to it. The dining table becomes a space where a piece of its place of origin is recreated. Restaurant owners say the dish's popularity in Dubai extends well beyond Iraqi diners and increasingly includes Emiratis and residents from different cultural backgrounds. Its growing presence reflects the broader exchange of culinary traditions within Dubai's multicultural society, where food often serves as an introduction to another culture. Numbers behind the tradition According to Azad, between 100 and 150 fish are prepared daily, with each fish averaging around four kilograms in weight. This amounts to between 400 and 600 kilograms of fish being prepared every day. The figures highlight the scale of the operation and the labour-intensive nature of the craft. Each fish must be cleaned, prepared and carefully grilled, with the process relying on experience and constant supervision of the fire. In an era when many kitchens prioritise speed, masgouf remains deliberately slow. The fish needs time, the fire demands attention and customers must wait. For many diners, however, that waiting is part of the experience. One restaurant customer summed up the connection simply by saying: "I never miss Friday." For many families, the dish has become part of a weekly ritual centred on gathering together. A journey that continues In Dubai, where cuisines and cultures from around the world meet, masgouf has found a new audience without abandoning the elements that define it: fish, fire, time and expertise. Between the glowing embers and the dining table, the dish continues its journey as more than just a meal. It remains a craft that carries the memory of a place, a cooking tradition passed down through generations and a culinary experience tha